Archive for September, 2008

Cruising through Córdoba

September 24th, 2008 by Abby

[ View photos from the Córdoba gallery in a new window ]

When we originally planned our time in Andalucia, we only allotted one night to Córdoba. Neither one of us had heard very much about this city, so we decided just to check it out briefly. Once we arrived there and started walking around, however, we realized that we could have happily spent much more time there.

Córdoba feels a bit like a maze — made up of narrow, winding streets that seem to snake in all directions. The sidewalks are maybe one-foot wide, so you have to flatten yourself against the buildings every time a car rolls by, which is more often than you might think. All of the buildings in Córdoba are white-washed, but feature colorful doorways, windows and tilework. Inside of many of the buildings are the city’s famous inner patio gardens — private retreats that we tried to catch a glimpse of whenever possible. We both really enjoyed just wandering the streets with no real purpose or destination.

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The one sight we made a real effort to see was the Mezquita, a former mosque turned Roman Catholic cathedral in the center of town. The combination of Moorish & Catholic styes made for some truly outstanding architecture.

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Granada

September 23rd, 2008 by Dan

[ View photos from the Granada gallery in a new window ]

We had a great stay in Granada. We arrived on Saturday afternoon, during siesta (which lasts from 3:00 to 5:00 and turns the city into a ghost town). After finding a nice “pension” near one of the city’s main squares, we went out for a stroll to check out the city’s main cathedral. The enormous building has a white arched ceiling held up by a series of columns (as pictured below), and a generous amount of stained glass.

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Afterward, we walked down the city’s main shopping drag in search for the English bookstore listed in our guidebook, but unfortunately it was closed. The walk was great for people-watching though, and we saw plenty of examples of a new European fashion craze that Abby will be writing about soon.

On Sunday, we got up early to check out Granada’s main attraction: the Alhambra, a large palace / fortress complex built by the Nasrid dynasty in the 13th and 14th century. The main sections are the Generalife (a large garden), the Palacio de Carlos V (an large Renaissance building with a circular courtyard), the Alcazaba (a set of ramparts and a large watchtower), and the Palacio Nazaríes , which is the main attraction. The Palacio Nazaríes is considered by some to be the most impressive Islamic structure in all of Europe, a statement that we certainly can’t argue with. The palace had room after room of arches and ornately carved stone walls and wooden doors. It was truly impressive.

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Out the window was a beautiful garden.

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We spent about three and a half hours total exploring the Alhambra, more time than we’ve spent at any other site on the trip, and finally left satisfied but exhausted. It’s impossible to show the real splendor of the place in a couple blog pictures, but take our word for it — it’s a sight not to be missed!

Aside from the sights, the other part of Granada that Abby and I really enjoyed was tapas. Granada takes pride in being one of the last few cities in Spain where it is still customary for bar owners to serve a small complimentary snack with each drink order (bars in most other cities charge nowadays). For example, when we each ordered a glass of sangria, the bar also brought out a couple pieces of bread covered with a tasty crab spread. Different tapas come out with each round of drinks, apparently in some pre-set order defined by the bar. The patron does not get to choose what they get. Perhaps this makes it easier and more economical, since bars can pre-make a bunch of small plates and hand them out as the drink orders come in. In any case, it’s an interesting and wonderful concept.

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Observations on Coffee in Italy

September 23rd, 2008 by Dan

(yes, i know this is a little late)

As an owner of an espresso machine and red-blooded Seattlite, I was very interested to see how the Italians drink their coffee. Over the course of our stay, we had the opportunity to try many cups of coffee at a variety of establishments. Here are a few things we observed…

Espresso = 0,85 – This is the standard price for the most common coffee drink we saw in Italy, a single shot of espresso served at a stand-up bar counter in a small ceramic cup with a matching saucer and demitasse spoon. The price is nearly 100% consistent across the board, though the premium to sit down while drinking your coffee varies and can double the cost of the drink. Adding a shot of Sambuca (as we saw somebody do) increases the price as well.

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Multitasking baristas – It’s common to see a barista making 3-4 shots of espresso at a time, simultaneously attending to a bunch of customers. Since classic manual machines (portafilters, tampers, …) are the norm and typically deliver two shots simultaneously to two separate cups, their job is a little easier than it sounds. At the autogrille (tollway restaurant, picture below), the coffees were coming out 4×4 and I had one in front of me before even ordering it!

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Efficient milk re-use – Unlike in America, it’s common for coffee shops to steam a bunch of milk ahead of time, then use the pre-steamed milk for macchiatos and cappuccinos as they’re ordered. This makes it possible to serve a milk-based drink nearly as quickly as it does to serve a straight espresso. There’s no waiting in line for your morning drink – it’s set down in front of you nearly immediately after you order it! Milk drinks are rarely ordered after lunch.

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“Bar” – Italians typically enjoy their espresso at a “bar”. These “bars” are not fancy lounges, dance clubs, or pubs. The typical “bar” is a place where people go for drinks and snacks, which almost always serves both coffee and beer.

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American drinks – Cafe Lattes are in fact sold in Italy, though they do not seem to be ordered very often (unlike their cousin, the Cappuccino). All drinks are small (no larger than 6 oz or so), and there is no such thing as a 2% triple-shot venti caramel frappacino. As far as we could tell, drip coffee doesn’t exist here either, though Cafe Americanos (espresso + water) are available. Other than Granita (a thick and potent cross between espresso and italian ice), we didn’t see any iced coffee drinks either.

Nescafe – No matter what anybody says, this is not espresso. It’s a disgrace to coffee in general. Frankly, I’m surprised it’s even legal here. I was only served this once.

Briefing from Málaga

September 19th, 2008 by Dan

[ View photos from the Málaga gallery in a new window ]

There’s nothing better than learning that your hotel has a slide…

Update from France: Nice not as nice as Arles

September 19th, 2008 by Abby

[ View photos from the Nice gallery in a new window ]

[ View photos from the Arles gallery in a new window ]

Following a long, slow train ride from Milan, we arrived in Nice with the mission of finding a hotel room. We consulted our usual go-to guide — Rick Steves — but found that all of his recommendations within our price range were already full. So, long story short, when left to our own devices we ended up in a small, rather seedy hotel that would definitely not make the short-list of Nice’s A-list visitors.

After dropping off our bags, we walked along the beach promenade, explored the Hotel Negresco, and then found a place in the Nice Etoile neighborhood to get a nice dinner that included the requisite Niçoise salad. The next morning, we walked up to the wonderful Marc Chagall museum, which was definitely the highlight of our visit to Nice. It is a small museum, for which Chagall specifically created 17 beautiful murals. It also featured some of his stained-glass work and an outdoor mosaic. It was a really beautiful museum.

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By early afternoon, we were back on the train headed for Arles down in the Provence region of France. Arles is a 45-minute train ride from Marseille, but feels like a different world from the very industrial port city. Again, we arrived without a hotel reservation, but did have a list of recommendations from our Rick Steves guidebook. Lucky for us the first few places we visited were full, because the third (or fourth?) place was amazing and just what we were looking for. We ended up staying at Hotel Le Cloitre, which is run by a delightful couple who decorated the place themselves in a French-country-chic style that I just loved. Our room was quiet, comfortable and just the style that you would expect from the town that so inspired Van Gogh. (Arles is where Van Gogh lived for about two years, during which he painted some of his most well known pieces.)

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Our two days in Arles were totally relaxing and provided a welcome break from the hurried pace of our prior week. We had a few great meals, including a wonderful lunch of tartine sandwiches at the local hangout La Cuisine de Comptoir. We also encountered another magnificent rainstorm, which we sat out with a digestif underneath the awning of Le Cafe la Nuit, which provided the inspiration for Van Gogh’s Cafe Terrace at Night painting, but is now recognized as a bit of a tourist trap in Arles. Another activity that we enjoyed in Arles was a self-guided walking tour that takes you to various spots throughout the town where Van Gogh had painted. They have these permanent easels set up with a reproduction of the painting so that you can see the current-day view next to what Van Gogh saw and drew inspiration from over 100 ears ago. Pretty cool.

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